At a Hiroshima sake bar, I tasted more than fine sake — I experienced genuine human warmth

I love visiting sake bars when I’m in Japan, and I see them in two modes. The first is drinking great sake—usually with friends who love sake but don’t speak much Japanese. Their main goal is to try famous labels like Juyondai, Aramasa, and Riko at reasonable prices. I’m happy to go along, so I’ve visited places like Kushikoma and Akaoni many times.

The second mode is drinking for the human connection, like the famous Japanese drama Midnight Diner—valuing conversation with the owner and other patrons. Between the two, I actually prefer this one. Recently I had half a day in Hiroshima and, with an afternoon free, I went to a sake bar called Nihonshu Bar KATOYA.

The shop is tiny with only seven bar seats. Because it was still early, I was the only customer and naturally struck up a conversation with the owner, Kato Koji. He doesn’t sell popular brands like Juyondai or Aramasa; he offers the bottles he personally likes. So I left the choices to him to experience his preferences and broaden my own horizons.

His selections tend toward traditional, full‑bodied styles—for example, Kuin Junmai Daiginjo, which is distinctly dry, and TSUKIYOSHINO Yamahai Junmai, with strong lactic acidity. He then introduced Maibijin Kimoto Junmai, a real powerhouse: sake meter value +22 and acidity 4.2—staggering numbers. It tasted even more striking when chilled, so I immediately asked him to serve it warm. He carefully let me sample it at 40°C, 50°C, and 60°C; I chose the 50°C expression and asked him to serve it at that temperature.

We then talked about his fondness for Tenryo and Taketsuru, and he offered me a taste of Taketsuru; he also mentioned his preference for niche items like warm plum sake and pure‑rice mirin. When I used my phone, he stayed quietly unobtrusive, keeping an appropriate distance from customers—very much like the owner in Midnight Diner.

Before I knew it, I had been there for over two hours. After paying, I took a photo with him and left feeling very comfortable and at ease. This kind of experience may not suit everyone, but when I visit sake bars in Japan I cherish these subtle, deep exchanges. If I return to Hiroshima, I will definitely go back. If you enjoy this kind of atmosphere and can speak some Japanese, I recommend you give it a try.

我到日本很喜歡光顧 Sake Bar，當中分兩個模式，第一種是「喝美酒」，多數是和愛日本酒但不太懂日語的朋友一起，他們的最大目標是平價喝到十四代、新政、而今等名酒，我很樂意和他們一起去，因此已去了「串駒」「赤鬼」等很多次。

第二種是「喝人情味」，就像著名日劇《深夜食堂》那樣，重視和老闆及其他客人的交流，兩者之中我其實更愛這一種。早前在廣島逗留半天，下午有空閒時間，就到了這一家「日本酒バルKATOYA」。

店很細小只有個7吧枱座位，因為時間尚早，店內只有我一位客人，於是自然地與店主加藤幸二攀談起來。他不賣「十四代」「新政」等熱門品牌，只提供自己喜歡的酒款。既然如此，便交由他發辦，感受他的喜好，同時擴闊自己的視野。

他所選的酒多偏向傳統而濃厚的風格，例如「九隱 純米大吟釀」辛口感明顯、「TSUKIYOSHINO 山廢純米」乳酸感強烈，最後更介紹「舞美人 生酛 純米」這款堪稱大魔王的酒。日本酒度+22、酸度4.2，數值驚人，冷飲感覺更驚人，我便立刻請他轉為燗酒。他細心地讓我分別試飲40、50、60度，最終我選擇50度的表現，並請他以該溫度上酒。

之後聊到他喜歡「天穩」與「竹鶴」的故事，主動請我品嚐竹鶴；又談及他偏愛小眾酒，如「燗梅酒」「純米本味醂」等。其他時間我用手機時，他安靜不打擾，與客人保持適當距離，風格有點像深夜食堂的老闆呢。

不經不覺喝了兩個多小時，結帳後與他合照一張才離開，整體相當舒適自在。這感覺或許並非人人喜歡，但我造訪日本酒吧，正是喜歡這種細緻而深入的交流。日後若再到廣島，定會再次光顧，如你也喜歡這感覺，又懂說日語的話，推薦你去感受一下。