GlenAllachie Distillery Visit

Last October I returned once more to run the Dramathon 10K. This time there were no storm warnings, so a weight lifted off my shoulders and I could finally run again along the road beside the River Spey.

Visiting a whisky distillery is a must whenever I go to Scotland. With limited time I could only visit one—ideally nearby and reachable by public transport—but the buses are so infrequent that careful planning was essential: which bus to take, the distillery tour time, and the return-bus schedule.

That day I also had to pick up my race pack in Dufftown, so every minute counted.

I took the No. 36 bus from Elgin toward Dufftown, got off at Aberlour, then walked two miles—about 30 minutes—to reach the only distillery I would tour on this trip: GlenAllachie.

Compared with many distilleries that boast a century or more of history, GlenAllachie is relatively young. Founded in 1967, it briefly closed in the 1980s and was bought in 2017 by renowned whisky maker Billy Walker, who gave the distillery a complete makeover as it entered its 50th year.

Four years ago their 10‑year‑old Cask Strength Batch 4 put them on the map, and their core 12‑year‑old recently won World’s Best Single Malt at the World Whiskies Awards, attracting much attention.

Since Billy Walker took over, he not only brought awards but also sharply reduced production to improve quality. With four stills, the distillery now produces roughly one million liters a year. Nestled at the foot of Ben Rinnes, its water source is the mountain streams—truly a place of clear hills and pure water. After more than a hundred hours of fermentation and subsequent distillation, the spirit goes into casks; on the day I visited I saw many French wine-region barrels, including Margaux. It’s now common for many whisky makers to use various wine casks, so this felt natural.

Before the tour I had a dram of the distillery‑exclusive 17‑year‑old in the on-site bar. Over the course of the visit I tasted six drams in total, and even though I had a race the next day, I set all concerns aside.

The tasting included four samples: starting with the entry‑level 12‑year finished in Sauternes casks, followed by a 7‑year finished in Hungarian wine casks—both leaning toward sweet, aromatic styles—then two hand‑fill releases from the distillery, plus an extra pour from the distillery manager. Meikle Toir is another line from the distillery: Billy Walker personally likes peated whisky but didn’t want that smoky profile to be presented under the GlenAllachie name, hence the separate label.

Before leaving I bought a PX‑cask hand‑fill from the distillery shop. Nearly a year later I still haven’t opened it; perhaps I’ll wait for the right moment and the right people to share the joy I felt in Scotland.

The return walk was another two miles through pastoral fields, the wind bending the hardy grasses; I kept looking ahead to the road before me.

I can condense this into a punchy social caption or a polished travel‑blog piece—reply “caption” or “blog” to choose.

上年十月，再一次因為參加Dramathon 10K比賽而來，這次沒有風暴警告，終於放下心頭大石，得以再次在River Spey旁邊的路上奔馳。

參觀威士忌酒廠，是每一次到訪蘇格蘭必然要做的事，時間有限，只能去一間，當然是在區內，而且是可以乘坐公共交通工具前往的酒廠，但巴士的班次實在太疏落，所以出發之前，計劃要周詳，坐那一班巴士，參加酒廠tour的時間，還有回程的巴士時間。

當日我還要去到Dufftown拿選手包，所以每一分一秒也很珍貴。

從Elgin坐36號開往Dufftown巴士，在Aberlour下車，仍需要步行兩哩路，需時30分鐘，來到我這次旅程，唯一一間參觀的酒廠 - Glenallachie。

與其它坐擁百多年歷史的酒廠相比，Glenallachie相對較為年青，1967年創立，於80年代曾經關閉一段短時間，去到2017年，被著名威士忌釀酒大師Billy Walker買入，從此為這個當時踏入50周年的酒廠改頭換面。

四年前它們已著10yo Cask Strength Batch 4登頂，開始受到不少人注視，它們的基本款12yo，在今年World Whiskies Awards，拿下World's Best Single Malt的佳績。

Billy Walker入主之後，除了為酒廠帶來獎項之外，更將生產量大幅減低，務求提高出品的質素，酒廠的四個蒸餾器，現時年產大約100萬公升左右，身處Ben Rinnes的山腳，釀製威士忌的水源，當然是沿用從山上河流的水，名符其實的山明水秀，經過百多小時發酵，蒸餾之後入桶，當日所見不乏法國名區的葡萄酒桶，像Margaux之類，現時不少威士忌廠都沿用不同類型的葡萄酒桶，其實也見怪不怪。

連同入場之前，在酒廠的酒吧喝了一杯酒廠限定的17yo，這個旅程，總共喝了六杯，就算第二日要比賽，一切也拋諸腦後。

試酒環節包四杯，由入門的12yo蘇玳桶開始，接連是7yo匈牙利酒桶，兩款的風格偏向甜美芳香，最後是兩款酒廠handfill版本，與及酒廠經理額外送多一杯，Meikle Toir是酒廠另一條線，因為Billy Walker本人喜歡泥煤威士忌，但不想將這種風味以GlenAllachie之名展現，所以有此一舉。

臨走之前，我在酒廠的精品店，斟了一瓶PX桶handfill回來，相隔接近一年的今日，仍未捨得打開，可能真的要等某些情合某些人，才會與我一起分享這份我在蘇格蘭感受過的喜悅。

回程又要行兩哩路，沿路是田園，風中下的勁草，我繼續仰望前路。

The best satay beef ho fun @ Pak Lok Teochew Restaurant (Dai Siu branch)

The long-established Teochew restaurant Pak Lok Teochew Restaurant on Hysan Avenue announced its closure last September. Just as everyone was lamenting the loss of another old establishment, three months later it rose from the ashes: descendants of the founder took over and relaunched it under the name 'Dai Siu'.

A month ago friends arranged a dinner there, joined by veteran journalist An Gor, writer He Gu, singer Long Xiaojun, five of us in total, to revisit the Teochew cuisine. Since we'd all been at the restaurant at different times before, I had been there a bit longer—ten years ago at a sake gathering I had their satay beef ho fun and have never forgotten it.

After drinking gongfu tea, the platter was served: braised items and smoked items. The pork tendon, with its gluey, clingy texture, was irresistibly delicious; the sliced goose was tender and tasty, the rich, aromatic braising liquid clinging to the slices seemed to tell the restaurant's decades-long history—after all, the braise is the heart of a Teochew restaurant. The smoked eel was fatty and flavorful with a smoky aroma; even compared to French cuisine it wouldn't be outclassed.

The plump squab stuffed with glutinous rice became an exquisite ginger-rice pigeon: crisp exterior, meat tender and juicy, the glutinous rice had plenty of ginger and included lotus seeds, but it wasn't as heavy as eating Eight-Treasure Duck—relatively lighter. The salted lemon-steamed grouper was cut into portions and arranged with choy sum in an alternating pattern; the grouper had thick flesh and fresh flavor, the salted lemon added a hint of fragrance. The faintly visible Shao-style vegetable roll enclosed a very rich filling—shrimp, dried scallop, abalone pieces, etc.—both savory and sweet and juicy.

As I mentioned earlier, I can't forget their satay beef ho fun, and of course it was on the menu that night: a generous heap of beef ho fun, each rice noodle strip distinct and coated in thick satay sauce with crushed peanuts; the beef pieces were large, tender and smooth, perfectly integrated with the noodles—after a decade apart, its charm remains.

"Shortly after the meal, I couldn't wait and arranged a dinner with readers here; I'm tempted to organize one too—can it happen by the end of the year?"

希慎道的潮州菜老字號「百樂潮州酒家」，上年九月宣佈結業，當大家還在惋惜又少一間老號之際，三個月後浴火重生，由創辦人嫡系後人接手，以大少店之名再戰江湖。

月前友人相約飯局在此，連同傳媒界前輩安哥，作家何故，歌手龍小菌，一行五人，回味這裡的潮州菜，因為大家之前都在不同時間來過，我就比較耐一點，十年前的清酒局，吃過它們的沙嗲牛河，念念不忘。

飲過功夫茶之後，拼盤隨即奉上，有滷水有煙燻，豬腳筋的如膠如漆的美妙感覺是令人吃到欲罷不能，鵝片軟熟可口，沉實芳香醇厚的鹵水，附在鵝片身上，像道出這數十年來飯店的歷史，畢竟滷水是一間潮州菜館的心臟，煙鱔肥美之外，帶著陣陣煙燻香，就算拍埋法國菜的出品，絕不比下去。

飽滿的乳鴿，裡面釀了糯米，成為了如此精緻的薑米鴿，脆身的外表，肉質嫩中帶juicy，糯米很夠薑，還有蓮子在內，但沒有好像吃八寶鴨般膩，相對比較輕巧一點；鹹檸檬蒸龍躉，切成件狀，與菜心梅花間竹排列，龍躉肉厚，魚味鮮美，鹹檸檬的點綴，多了一份清香，若隱若現的紹菜卷，包住的餡料非常豐富，蝦仁，瑤柱，鮑魚粒等等，既鹹香又鮮甜多汁。

我在前段提到對這裡的沙嗲牛河念念不忘，這晚當然不缺席，大兜亂的牛河，每條分明的河粉，沾滿濃厚的沙嗲汁，連帶著花生粒，牛肉件頭大質感嫩滑，與河粉一氣呵成，闊別十載風采依然。

飯後不久，何故兄急不及待，在此安排了與讀者的飯局，我心思思又想搞埋一份，年尾能否成事？

Return to My True Colors (2)

It was 2021 when I published an article here about the twenty-two vineyards in Pouilly‑Fuissé being officially upgraded to Premier Cru status, effective from the 2020 vintage—by now many Pouilly fans will have tasted them. Time has flown, and over the past few years four more Premier Cru sites have been added; this time the neighboring Pouilly‑Loche and Pouilly‑Vinzelles. I have a bit of a connection with the latter: when I took the Burgundy instructor exam I happened to encounter it, and in my presentation I concluded it was essentially Pouilly‑Fuissé—so you can imagine how close the two are. Pouilly‑Loche includes “Les Mûres,” and Vinzelles contributes three plots—Longeays, Petaux, and Quarts—which from the 2024 vintage are officially designated as Burgundy Premier Cru vineyards. Their total area is just over thirty hectares.

Back in 2022, certain parcels in Pouilly‑Vinzelles and Pouilly‑Loche were already close to being approved for upgrade. Production rules require no herbicides, mandatory hand harvesting, yields under 5,800 liters per hectare, a minimum alcohol of 12% ABV, and wines may only be released to market after July of the following year. This area sits south of Chablis and, like Chablis, uses Chardonnay, yet it had not been upgraded until now—rumor has it the process took twenty years to reach this honor. The region has already attracted significant attention from foreign winemakers and Burgundian domaines; even renowned Côte d’Or houses such as Leflaive and Comtes Lafon have invested resources in the Mâconnais, and in recent years Château de Vinzelles has been included in local tourism development plans.

The Mâconnais lies in the southernmost part of the region with milder weather. The 2024 vintage was the upgrade year and the harvest was stable, unlike the clear shortfalls seen elsewhere. 2023 and 2022 were especially abundant and high-quality vintages; because those years have not yet been reclassified, prices remain relatively low and are worth buying now. If you’re interested in visiting the newest Premier Cru sites, consider dining at L’O des Vignes—the wine list will not disappoint and prices are fair. For older bottles, consider Quintaine 1985 Domaine de la Bongran or Les Birbettes 1999 Château des Rontets, both of which show Burgundy in excellent condition.

那年是2021年，在這裡發表文章關於Pouilly-Fuisse的廿二個果園正式升級為一級園，年份由2020年開始，相信各位"布粉"已品嚐不小。時光飛逝，幾年間又有四個新一級園加入，這次是毗鄰的 Pouilly-Loche 和 Pouilly-Vinzelles， 後者和在下算有點緣，當年考布爾岡導師時就是遇著她，presentation總結她是Pouilly-Fuisse，可想而知兩者是多麽接近。Pouilly-Loche擁有 "Les Mures" 加上Vinzelles三塊果園- Longeays，Petaux，Quarts 從2024年份正式開始標纖為布爾岡一級果園，總面積只是三十公頃多一點。

在2022年之時， Pouilly-Vinzelles 和Pouilly-Loche 兩地某塊果園已差不多落實升級，生產規限方面是禁止除草劑，必須手採收成，產量小於每公頃五千八百公升，酒精度不得小於12%，成熟期必須在翌年七月後才可推出市面。這裡和Chablis一北一南，也是採用Chardonnay，但一直未有升級，據聞原來已搞了二十年才有今日榮譽。其實這裡已吸引不小國外釀酒師和布爾岡酒廠注意，甚至Cote d’Or的名牌酒莊如 Leflaive，Comtes Lafon等也投放資源在Maconnaise，近年Chateau de Vinzelles亦被列入為旅遊發展計劃。

Maconnaise位於最南部地區，天氣比較温和，2024年是升級年份，收成也稳定，不像其他地方明顯失收。2023和2022年更是豐收和優質年份，這些年份還未升級，酒價偏低，值得趁早入貨。 若果大家有興趣去最新一級園朝聖可考慮到 L’O des Vignes 用餐，酒單不會令你失望，取價公道，舊酒可考慮Quintaine 1985 Domaine de la Bongran 或 Les Birbettes 1999 Château des Rontets 兩者可給予布爾岡優質狀態。

India's whisky

India's whisky industry began as early as the mid-18th century, when a Briton established the Kasuli distillery and released India's first malt whisky—Solan No.1. Because India was once a British colony, Indian whisky was naturally influenced by Scotland, but traditional production used cheap molasses fermented into alcohol and then distilled; at the time grains had to be reserved for food. India consumed a lot of whisky, but because it was made from inexpensive molasses it leaned toward rum-like spirits, mixed with soda or cola, and couldn't be compared to true whisky. Only by the late 20th century did producers start to focus on grain-based distillation; thanks to Amrut and Paul John, Indian whisky reached the international stage. Amrut was the first to produce an Indian single malt about twenty years ago, followed by Paul John a decade or so later, which used locally made copper pot stills.

Whisky production relies on water sources, and western Goa's soft water is notable; producers use six-row barley, which differs markedly from other countries' materials and is commonly cited as a reason for Indian whisky's nutty and spicy character. India has a tropical climate—temperatures in the northern plains and west can reach 45°C, and annual angel's share can exceed 10%. Spirits mature quickly in barrels; oak extraction is sufficient to maintain a lively body and tropical fruit notes, but oxidation-driven complexity still requires time. High evaporation can also lead to excessive oak influence, so maturation periods must be carefully calibrated.

Most products can be released to market within just a few years, so expressions older than eight years are rare; among them Amrut's limited Greedy Angels series aged eight and ten years are already extremely rare representatives of Indian single malt. Modern Indian single malt whisky is developing: the domestic middle-class market is shifting toward malt, exports are rising, new distilleries are emerging, and barrel diversity is increasing, bringing new stimuli. For example, the well-known Rampur is noted for its elegance—its Asava is finished in local red wine casks; Piccadilly Distillery's recent Indri Trini three-cask release—red wine, sherry, and bourbon casks—has already won significant international awards.

印度威士忌工業早在十八世紀中期已開始，當年由一位英國人建立了Kasuli 蒸餾所並推出第一瓶印度麥芽威士忌 - Solan No.1。由於曾是英國殖民地關係，印度威士忌自然受蘇格蘭影響，但傳統材料是採用廉價的molasses發酵成酒精再蒸餾而成，當年原因是穀物必須要留作食物用途。在印度威士忌消耗量很大，但止於以平價Molasses材料釀造，偏向於rum酒，配合梳打水或可樂等雜飲，不能比較真正威士忌。到二十世紀末才開始重視以穀物材料釀造，後來多得Amrut和Paul John兩大品牌把印度威士忌帶出國際，Amrut 首先在廿年前生産印度單一麥芽威士忌，然後Paul John在十多年前加入，並採用印度本土打造蒸餾銅壼。

生産威士忌水源尤以西部Goa屬軟水，採用六行大麥six roll barley，這些材料又和其他國家截然不同，也是一般認為印度威士忌堅果和辛辣風味的原因。印度屬於熱帶氣候，北部平原和西部温度可高達45度，每年Angel Share 可超過10% 這般利害，酒液在木桶陳熟快速，橡木桶extraction是足夠的，維持輕快酒體，熱帶水果風味，但酒液本身的oxidation是依靠時間才能製造更多複雜感，不過高蒸發度又可促成攝取過多木桶風味，所以熟成時間必須拿揑準確。

一般産品短短幾年間已可推出市場，所以超過八年以上的産品是罕有的，市面上要數Amrut 限量版Greedy Angels系列八年和十年已經是極罕有的印度單一麥芽代表。現代印度單一麥芽威士忌正在發展中，國內中産階層市場也轉向麥芽，出口也在攀升，新酒廠湧現，橡木桶續漸多元化，帶來不同刺激。好像市場上著名的Rampur 是以優雅見稱，其Asava 是以本地紅酒木桶熟成； 還有Piccadilly Distillery近年的Indri Trini 三桶 : 紅酒、雪利和波本木桶， 已連奪不小國際大獎。

Fukuoka's "Path of Light" — A Once-in-a-10-Years, Rarely Seen Moving Sight

The story begins in early 2016, when the then-superpopular band Arashi filmed a commercial for JAL, all five members admiring the 'Path of Light'; that beautiful image instantly made the filming location, Miyajidake Shrine in Fukuoka, explode in popularity. I had longed to see it, but it was hard to make happen—the biggest reason being the high viewing threshold.

The main selling point is that the shrine's approach and the road line up straight to the Sea of Japan? Wait, Miyajidake faces the Genkai Sea (Sea of Japan?) But we shouldn't invent. Just "the sea". "As the sun sets, the golden light at the end of the road illuminates the entire road, forming the 'Path of Light'. However, due to the positions of the Earth and the sun, the sunset only falls at the end of the road for a few days in late February and late October. And of course weather matters—if it's cloudy or rainy and you can't see the sun, there's nothing to talk about.

Meeting those conditions is extremely difficult for tourists. Earlier I joined a Dassai brewery tour; when planning the itinerary I found there might be a chance to see it, so I adjusted plans and stayed extra nights in Fukuoka hoping for good weather. But before departure I checked the forecast and Fukuoka was predicted to be overcast with light rain all week, which dampened my spirits.

"Also, Miyajidake Shrine holds the 'Path of Light—Sunset Festival' from October 16 to 22, with special seating on the Path of Light; to get a seat you must register on-site at 9:20 a.m., which is time-consuming, so the last day you can freely watch in the afternoon without restrictions is October 15. That morning I woke to the pleasant surprise of excellent weather, and the Meteorological Agency's forecast had changed from cloudy to clear all day, so after lunch I immediately returned to the hotel to gather my gear and set off.

Miyajidake Shrine is actually not large; you can walk it in about an hour. The highlight is naturally the 'Path of Light', and the best viewing spot is at the top of the approach steps at the shrine entrance. By around five in the afternoon dozens of people had gathered there; I waited with them, taking rounds of photos every few minutes with both camera and phone. After all, it might be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity."

The ideal shot is for the sun to set exactly at the end of the approach, but on that day when the sun reached that position there were only fifteen minutes left until sunset and the light was insufficient; about ten minutes earlier the light had been better and formed a clearer 'Path of Light'. It wasn't perfect, but I was very satisfied.

Undoubtedly, it was one of the most moving sunsets I've ever seen. Thanks to the heavens for the beauty, and thanks to the Dassai brewery tour for helping me achieve one of the top items on my day-trip bucket list. If you want to see it, plan a trip to Fukuoka in late February next year.

故事開始是2016年初，當時紅透半邊天的「嵐」為 JAL 拍攝廣告，五子齊齊欣賞「光之道」，那漂亮的畫面讓拍攝地福岡「宮地嶽神社」瞬間爆紅。當時我已心嚮往之，但一直難以達成，最大原因在於觀賞門檻極高。

那裡的最大賣點，是參道和馬路一直線從神社直通到日本海，如夕陽下山時在道路的盡頭，金黃色的光輝會把整條道路照亮形成「光之道」。然而受地球與太陽位置影響，夕陽僅會在2月下旬與10月下旬的數日間落在道路盡頭。當然更重要是天氣，多雲有雨看不到夕陽的話，就什麼都不用說。

要滿足這樣的條件，對遊客而言實在太難。早前我參加獺祭見學之旅，在規劃行程時發現有機會看到，於是調整安排，盡量在福岡多住幾晚，以期遇上好天氣。然而出發前查看天氣預報，福岡整週皆為密雲小雨，心已涼了一大截。

此外宮地嶽神社由10月16日至22日舉辦「光之道〜夕陽之祭」，在光之道設置特別席，想坐就要早上9:20到現場報名，太花時間和精神，於是能下午才去不受限制自由觀賞的最後一天就是10月15日。當天清晨醒來驚喜發現天氣極佳，再看氣象廳預報，竟由先前的多雲轉為整日放晴，於是用過午餐後便立刻回酒店取齊裝備出發。

宮地嶽神社其實不大，約一小時就可走完，重點自然是「光之道」，最佳觀賞位置在神社入口參道階梯的最上方，下午五時左右那裡已聚集數十人，我亦在那裡守候，每隔數分鐘以相機與手機各拍一輪。畢竟很可能是人生僅有的一次機會。

「光之道」拍攝理想狀態是夕陽恰好落在參道盡頭，但當日太陽抵達該位置時距離日落僅餘十五分鐘，光線不足，反而在此前約十分鐘光度較佳，更能形成清晰的「光之道」，雖非完美，但已經讓我很滿足。

毋庸置疑，這是我人生欣賞過最感動的日落之一。感謝天公造美，亦感謝今次獺祭見學之旅，讓我實現日遊清單上的其中一項最高目標。想欣賞的話，計劃明年2月下旬去福岡走走吧。

At a Hiroshima sake bar, I tasted more than fine sake — I experienced genuine human warmth

I love visiting sake bars when I’m in Japan, and I see them in two modes. The first is drinking great sake—usually with friends who love sake but don’t speak much Japanese. Their main goal is to try famous labels like Juyondai, Aramasa, and Riko at reasonable prices. I’m happy to go along, so I’ve visited places like Kushikoma and Akaoni many times.

The second mode is drinking for the human connection, like the famous Japanese drama Midnight Diner—valuing conversation with the owner and other patrons. Between the two, I actually prefer this one. Recently I had half a day in Hiroshima and, with an afternoon free, I went to a sake bar called Nihonshu Bar KATOYA.

The shop is tiny with only seven bar seats. Because it was still early, I was the only customer and naturally struck up a conversation with the owner, Kato Koji. He doesn’t sell popular brands like Juyondai or Aramasa; he offers the bottles he personally likes. So I left the choices to him to experience his preferences and broaden my own horizons.

His selections tend toward traditional, full‑bodied styles—for example, Kuin Junmai Daiginjo, which is distinctly dry, and TSUKIYOSHINO Yamahai Junmai, with strong lactic acidity. He then introduced Maibijin Kimoto Junmai, a real powerhouse: sake meter value +22 and acidity 4.2—staggering numbers. It tasted even more striking when chilled, so I immediately asked him to serve it warm. He carefully let me sample it at 40°C, 50°C, and 60°C; I chose the 50°C expression and asked him to serve it at that temperature.

We then talked about his fondness for Tenryo and Taketsuru, and he offered me a taste of Taketsuru; he also mentioned his preference for niche items like warm plum sake and pure‑rice mirin. When I used my phone, he stayed quietly unobtrusive, keeping an appropriate distance from customers—very much like the owner in Midnight Diner.

Before I knew it, I had been there for over two hours. After paying, I took a photo with him and left feeling very comfortable and at ease. This kind of experience may not suit everyone, but when I visit sake bars in Japan I cherish these subtle, deep exchanges. If I return to Hiroshima, I will definitely go back. If you enjoy this kind of atmosphere and can speak some Japanese, I recommend you give it a try.

我到日本很喜歡光顧 Sake Bar，當中分兩個模式，第一種是「喝美酒」，多數是和愛日本酒但不太懂日語的朋友一起，他們的最大目標是平價喝到十四代、新政、而今等名酒，我很樂意和他們一起去，因此已去了「串駒」「赤鬼」等很多次。

第二種是「喝人情味」，就像著名日劇《深夜食堂》那樣，重視和老闆及其他客人的交流，兩者之中我其實更愛這一種。早前在廣島逗留半天，下午有空閒時間，就到了這一家「日本酒バルKATOYA」。

店很細小只有個7吧枱座位，因為時間尚早，店內只有我一位客人，於是自然地與店主加藤幸二攀談起來。他不賣「十四代」「新政」等熱門品牌，只提供自己喜歡的酒款。既然如此，便交由他發辦，感受他的喜好，同時擴闊自己的視野。

他所選的酒多偏向傳統而濃厚的風格，例如「九隱 純米大吟釀」辛口感明顯、「TSUKIYOSHINO 山廢純米」乳酸感強烈，最後更介紹「舞美人 生酛 純米」這款堪稱大魔王的酒。日本酒度+22、酸度4.2，數值驚人，冷飲感覺更驚人，我便立刻請他轉為燗酒。他細心地讓我分別試飲40、50、60度，最終我選擇50度的表現，並請他以該溫度上酒。

之後聊到他喜歡「天穩」與「竹鶴」的故事，主動請我品嚐竹鶴；又談及他偏愛小眾酒，如「燗梅酒」「純米本味醂」等。其他時間我用手機時，他安靜不打擾，與客人保持適當距離，風格有點像深夜食堂的老闆呢。

不經不覺喝了兩個多小時，結帳後與他合照一張才離開，整體相當舒適自在。這感覺或許並非人人喜歡，但我造訪日本酒吧，正是喜歡這種細緻而深入的交流。日後若再到廣島，定會再次光顧，如你也喜歡這感覺，又懂說日語的話，推薦你去感受一下。

A Sip of History: Meeting The King Of Barbaresco In His Italian Castle

Half a world away from Hong Kong, I stood within the modern, stone-walled grandeur of Angelo Gaja’s castle in Barbaresco, Italy. The air was thick with the scent of aged oak and anticipation as I awaited a tasting of Gaja’s latest vintage, a rare privilege that felt surreal. Suddenly, the legendary winemaker Angelo Gaja, in a casual t-shirt and jeans, strode into the room and greeted me. “Welcome! Tell me, how’s Hong Kong now?” he asked. His voice laced with curiosity, instantly bridging the distance between us.

As we settled into conversation, I couldn’t help but marvel at the depth of Angelo’s connection to Hong Kong, a bond that many of his followers might not know. It all began three decades ago, when the Grand Hyatt decided to open an Italian restaurant in the heart of the city. At the time, an Italy-based chef was tasked with leading the venture, and he found himself grappling with the challenge of naming and branding the restaurant. Italian restaurant names might seem straightforward, but in early 1990s Hong Kong, Italian cuisine was still a burgeoning trend, and the landscape was far from saturated.

The chef turned to Gaja for ideas. It was a decision that would not only shape the restaurant’s identity but also forge a lasting connection between Gaja wine and Hong Kong. “Grissini!” Angelo recalled. “I like grissini and isn’t it authentic enough?” He raised his hands with emotion as he spoke.

Angelo continued, “Grissini, crunchy breadsticks also known as the “little stick of Turin, was one of Napoleon’s favorite foods. It’s originally from Piedmont, where it’s served on every table as a delectable start to a meal.” As Angelo recounted the moment, his eyes sparkled with a mix of nostalgia and pride, a testament to the enduring legacy of his global influence. “In HK, you have more chances to taste French than Italian wine,” Angelo said. “In terms of production, we have a smaller quantity but better quality. Our lands are very sacred, especially in Piedmont, and unlike France, we don’t export everything.”

Since that serendipitous connection, Angelo and his eldest daughter Gaia, who now steers the family empire, have become frequent visitors to Hong Kong. Their mission was to weave the soulful elegance of their Piedmont and Tuscany wines into the city’s thriving culinary scene.

In a city where French restaurants have long dominated Hong Kong’s fine dining scene, Angelo Gaja dares to envision a different future back then. By aligning his prestigious labels with upscale Italian eateries like Grissini, he was inviting local wine aficionados, label-chasers, and curious diners alike into a world where each dish, from handmade pastas to slow-roasted porchetta. Authentic Italian cuisine becomes a harmonious partner to the bold, earthy notes of Piedmont’s Nebbiolo or the refined grace of Tuscany’s blends. Italian wine is poised to challenge the dominance of Burgundy and Bordeaux among the noble reds. This ambition is further fueled by Piedmont’s culinary prowess, with an impressive 57 Michelin-starred restaurants (including four 2-starred), anchoring its status as a global epicenter of gastronomy and viticulture.

As the recipient of the 2019 Winemaking Award from the Institute of Masters of Wine and The Drinks Business, Angelo commands reverence in the wine world. The Gaja family, at the forefront of this movement, spans four wineries across Italy, encompassing 245 hectares of meticulously tended vineyards in Piedmont, Bolgheri, and Montalcino. In 2017, the family expanded its vision even further, investing in the volcanic soils of Sicily’s Mount Etna, a region renowned for its distinctive, mineral-driven wines. The Gaja winery is located in the heart of Barbaresco, just a short distance from the famous Torre di Barbaresco. For many years, the winery was a well-kept secret, but it opened its doors to visitors in 2014. Each year, Gaja produces around 300,000 bottles of wine, with 60% of that production intended for export.

我站在意大利皮蒙區(Piedmont) 的巴浿絲可Gaja嘉雅城堡的現代石牆輝煌中, 遠離香港半個世界。空氣中瀰漫著陳年橡木桶的濃郁氣息，而我正期待品嚐的嘉雅2009的年份酒款。突然，傳奇釀酒師安傑羅·加亞穿著休閒T恤和牛仔褲，大步走進房間，向我致意。「歡迎，歡迎！香港現在怎麼樣？」他好奇的聲音瞬間把我們之間的距離拉近了。這種難得的榮幸讓人感到如夢似幻。

隨著我們慢慢聊起來，我不禁驚嘆於原來Angelo 對香港的深厚淵源，但他的許多粉絲或仰慕者並不知情。這一切始於三十年前，當時君悅酒店 Grand Hyatt決定開設一家義大利餐廳。當時，一位常駐義大利的廚師負責領導這家餐廳，而他卻面臨著餐廳命名和品牌塑造的難題。義大利餐廳的名字或許看似簡單，但在1990年代初的香港，義大利菜仍是一股新興潮流，市場遠未飽和。

主廚向安傑羅尋求靈感。這個決定不僅塑造了餐廳的永久品牌形象，也為嘉雅葡萄酒與香港建立了持久的連結。

「Grissini！」安傑羅回憶道。 「我喜歡Grissini，它就是正中的義大利象徵？」他激動地舉起了雙手。

安傑羅繼續說道：「Grissini是一種酥脆的麵包棒，也被稱為 <都靈小棍>，是拿破崙最愛的食物之一。它起源於皮埃蒙特 Piedmont。在這裡，每張餐桌上都會擺上Grissini，作為我們開胃菜。」安傑羅回憶起那一刻，眼神中閃爍著懷舊與自豪的交織，證明了他在全球影響力的持久傳承。

「在香港，你品嚐法國葡萄酒的機會比義大利葡萄酒更多，」安傑羅說。 「就以產量而言，我們義大利的產量較小，但品質更好。我們的土地非常神聖，尤其是在皮埃蒙特，而且與法國不同，我們不會出口所有產品。」

自從Grissini成立後，安傑羅和他的長女 Gaia（如今掌管家族帝國）便成了香港的常客。他們的使命是將皮埃蒙特和托斯卡納葡萄酒的深情優雅融入這座城市蓬勃發展的餐飲業。

香港高級餐飲業歷史以來都被法國餐廳長期主導， 在這個背景下，安傑羅對香港敢於展望一個截然不同的未來。他將Gaja 與 Grissini 等高檔義大利餐廳合作，邀請當地葡萄酒愛好者、品牌追逐者和充滿好奇心的食客們，共同探索一個從手工意麵到慢烤烤豬肉，每一道菜都精彩紛呈的世界。道地的義大利美食與皮埃蒙特內比奧羅濃鬱的泥土氣息，或託斯卡納混釀的精緻優雅，完美地融為一體。

在香港， 義大利葡萄酒正蓄勢待發，挑戰勃根地和波爾多在貴族紅葡萄酒領域的統治地位。皮埃蒙特的烹飪實力更是助長了這項雄心壯志。皮埃蒙特擁有57家出名的米其林星級餐廳（其中包括4家二星），鞏固了其作為全球美食和葡萄種植中心的地位。

作為2019年葡萄酒大師協會（Institute of Masters of Wine）和《Drinks Business》雜誌聯合頒發的釀酒獎的獲得者，安傑洛在葡萄酒界享有崇高的敬意。嘉雅家族是這場運動的先鋒，在義大利擁有四家酒莊，在皮埃蒙特、博格利和蒙塔奇諾擁有245公頃精心照料的葡萄園。 2017年，嘉雅家族進一步拓展視野，投資西西里島埃特納火山的火山土壤，該地區以其獨特的礦物質風味葡萄酒而聞名。

Gaja酒廠位於Barbaresco的中心，距離著名的Torre di Barbaresco僅幾步之遙。多年來，酒廠一直是個保守的秘密，但它在2014年向遊客敞開了大門。加亞每年生產約30萬瓶葡萄酒，其中60%用於出口。

Talk about the new whiskies I’ve recently tried

When it comes to whisky, Hong Kong drinkers mostly stick to Scotch or Japanese bottles. Beyond those two main countries, I was invited last week to a Premium Whisky Tasting in Tasmania, where about ten distilleries poured nearly 30 Tasmanian whiskies. Tasmania is an island south of mainland Australia and now hosts more than 60 distilleries. Its pure water and larger temperature swings during maturation—greater than Scotland’s—have become defining features of the region’s whisky style.

I tasted many expressions that day; the ones that left the deepest impressions were:

Old Kempton Distillery (Tasmania)

Old Kempton Single Malt — The Old Stables (40.5% ABV) is very approachable, with rich malt character accompanied by dried fruit and dried-flower notes. The pear-cask influence is clear and everything feels well balanced. This expression was finished in pear casks and also matured in Pinot Noir wine barrels, which is unusual.

Old Kempton Cask Strength — The Coachhouse (60% ABV) followed the Old Stables. The cask-strength version bursts with aromatic intensity: concentrated malt, chocolate, dried fruit and toffee—many complex layers—and a very long finish.

Hellyer’s Road Distillery (Tasmania)

Hellyer’s Road American Oak 20 Year Old Single Cask (52.8% ABV) — the 20‑year American‑oak single cask was presented in an eye‑catching wooden box. On the nose it shows fruit—Australian peach—and floral notes; on the palate it is full-bodied and the finish is very long. It’s rich yet elegant, more refined than a typical bourbon‑cask profile, thanks to high‑quality casks and long maturation (photo included). According to the distillery, over 90% of their stocks are aged 20 years or more in Australia, so it’s no surprise they can release multiple 20‑year expressions.

Lawrenny Estate Distillery (Tasmania)

Lawrenny Homestead Triple Cask Single Malt (41.5% ABV) uses American and French casks and offers tropical fruit and floral aromas. It’s very easy to drink; beyond the fruit you can sense sherry‑cask caramel and later cherry/red‑fruit notes from the bourbon cask (photo included). Lawrenny is the island’s only distillery that grows its own barley and is one of the few single‑malt producers in the world that controls the process from its own fields to the bottle. The distillery is very new but clearly carving its own path rather than copying Scottish styles. The founder told me Lawrenny has already launched in Taiwan and will appear in select high‑end APITA stores in Hong Kong before Christmas—definitely one to watch.

Beyond Tasmanian whisky, I also joined the HKTDC International Wine & Spirits Fair trade tour last week. After last year’s reduction in spirits duty, Chinese producers have been very active at trade shows, promoting local spirits including baijiu, sauce‑aroma baijiu, and huangjiu. An interesting example is Tsingtao: while many know the brewery for beer, Tsingtao has also launched a whisky brand. In 2022 they entered a new phase, aiming to create high‑quality Chinese whisky. At the HKTDC fair they poured several expressions—sherry cask, bourbon cask, and Mongolian oak (the Japanese term is Mizunara). I tried Tsingtao’s single malt and was pleasantly surprised: very approachable, with the pear‑cask character Hong Kong drinkers like and a fragrant oak presence. Reportedly it won gold in the spirits (whisky) category at the 2024 Frankfurt International Spirits Competition.

Speaking with Tsingtao’s whisky marketing rep, they said the distillery now offers guided tours by appointment in Qingdao, making it one of the closest whisky‑tour options to Hong Kong. Tsingtao also plans to launch in Hong Kong next year.

講威士忌，香港酒友最主流喝的都是蘇格蘭 或 日本威士忌，除了這兩個主流國家，上星期應邀到業界塔斯文尼亞 (Tasmania) 舉辦的 Premium Whisky Tasting, 當中有大约 10間酒廠，接近 30 款塔斯文尼亞威士忌酒款試飲，塔斯馬尼亞是位於澳洲南面一塊島嶼, 目前有超過60個蒸餾廠. 水質純淨, 、熟成時有著比蘇格蘭更大的溫差變化，成為此地的製酒特色。(有圖)

本人當天試飲了在場酒廠多款威士忌酒款, 以下其中較深刻

Old Kempton Distillery (Tasmania)

Old Kempton single malt whisky the old stables 40.5% A.b.v 是一款易入口, 濃郁的麥芽味道 , 伴隨著乾果同乾花香. 雪梨桶味,各方面好協調。這款酒用了雪梨桶, 還有黑皮諾葡萄酒桶(Pinot Noir) 熟成 ,很特別.

Old Kempton Cask Strength Whisky The Coachhouse 60% A.b.v. 試完前一款the old stables 後, 再試這一款原酒 , 能感到芳香撲鼻香氣, 入口濃郁的麥芽味道 , 朱古力, 水果乾, 太妃糖味 好多層次複雜, 餘韻極長. (有圖)

Hellyer’s Road Distillery (Tasmania)

Hellyer’s Road American Oak 20 Year Old Single Cask 52.8% A.b.v. 試了它的 20 年美國波本橡木桶, 酒木盒包裝精美, 十分吸睛. 從Nose有水果味, 澳洲桃, 花香味, 入口威士忌醇厚, 餘韻極長, 味道濃郁但優雅. 比起一般傳統美國桶更優雅, 來自優質木桶及陳年熟成. (有圖)

翻查酒廠資料, Hellyer’s Road Distillery 原來擁有超過九成以上在澳洲20年以上陳年威士忌, 難怪酒廠可以出產多款20年以上威士忌.

Lawrenny Estate Distillery (Tasmania)

Lawrenny Estate Distillery Homestead Triple Cask Single Malt whisky 41.5%

這款酒用上了美國及法國桶, 有熱帶水果及花香氣. 好易入口, 除了水果味, 也可以感受雪莉桶的焦糖味，波本桶隨後的櫻桃紅果味。 (有圖)

Lawrenny Distillery 是全島唯一使用自種大麥的酒廠，亦是世界上少數僅有從自家麥田到瓶子的單一麥芽威士忌酒廠. 此蒸餾廠非常新，但明顯有走出自己的路而不是複製貼上蘇格蘭威士忌，蒸餾廠負責人說台灣已推出, 香港今年聖誕節前也會在一些高級百貨超市 APITA 推出, 值得期待。

除了塔斯文尼亞威士忌, 另外上星期也参加了香港貿發局國際美酒展業界導賞團. 在去年減免烈酒稅加持下, 大家可見在各大酒展, 不乏各中國酒廠大推中國烈酒, 包括中國白酒 , 醬香型白酒及黃酒等

有趣的是青島啤酒, 大家可能聽過也飲過. 但其實除左啤酒, 青島酒廠也有出威士忌品牌. 係2022年, 進入了全新的时代，打造了中國人自己的高品質威士忌. 青島酒廠在貿發局國際美酒展, 安排了其中幾款威士忌試飲. 包括有雪莉威士忌 (sherry cask),波本桶 (Bourbon cask) 及 蒙古檪橡木桶 (日本出產的叫水楢木桶 Mizunara cask). 個人試了它的青島單一麥芽威士忌, 有驚喜, 好易入口, 是港人喜歡的雪梨木桶,木桶味好香. 據報在2024法蘭克福國際大獎賽, 榮獲金獎大賽烈酒(威士忌)類別最佳酒款 (有圖)

同青島威士忌營銷代表閒談, 他們現在青島也有提供威士忌廠導賞團, 可供客人預約參觀, 可算是距離香港最近之一. 青島威士忌也表示計劃明年在港推出.

Vintage Rolex - Meter First 5513

Since I have moved my shop, I have been busier and I haven't written an article for a long time, why don't I write about Diving 5513's Matte Dial. Rolex fans who have played with vintage diving model, they all know that in the early stage was the Lacquer Dial, in the middle stage was the Matte Dial, and the last stage was the Glossy Dial. When did Matte Dial start to be made?

The earliest Meter First Dial (MF) of Submariner Reference 5513 was produced in 1967. It came out at the same time as Lacquer Dial, so the original MF were made of the same tritium material as the Lacquer Dial. It can also turn on green ray when it encounters UV light. This kind of luminous light is relatively special. It usually looks a little bright yellow, some people call it the granulated sugar luminous light. It is the only luminous dial in the Submariner 5513 matt dial that can light up.This luminous case is the same as that of the contemporaneous models such as the GMT-Master 1675, Explorer 1016, diving 5512 MF dial.

This kind of matte dial is a product from 1967, but Rolex soon launched a dial made of tritium, which is "unlighted". We can find MF dials of the same year in the market, but with different responses to UV light. In addition to the luminous colour of this MF dial, which will turn yellow and dark, a very small amount of the black surface will turn brown and become Tropical Dial. Of course, the market price of beautiful brown dial can be very expensive, and I have not encountered a good example for many years, so I don’t have collection of this kind. 

After 2013, the appreciation of the Submariner 5513 is obvious, and it ranks among the best in the vintage sport watches. The most sought-after ones were MF and Maxi dials. After reaching the high point in 2018, there are signs of stagnation. In recent years, new watch fans are focused on new models, so the Submariner 5513 is cheaper, especially the MF 5513, which is relatively cheaper than the Maxi dial. Whether this situation will change in the future, it most likely depends on market forces.

The subsequent dial design was Feet First. In 1969, two dials were produced to replace the MF face, which were the Serif and Non-serif dials. These two dials have very similar designs. There are traces of them from the beginning of the serial number two million to the five million. How to differentiate them?You can take a look at the following pictures: The most obvious is the rectangular luminous, the upper and lower or left and right sides have a hooked appearance, there is a slight difference in the position of the ROLEX font. If you want to know how to identify their differences, you have to strengthen your observation and memory of these subsections.Submariner 5513 has begun to have new changes at this time. Have you heard of COMEX? In the next episode I will share with you about the origin of these Terms, and the most glorious era of this model, Maxi dials.

自搬舖之後，整體忙碌了，已很久沒寫文章，不如就寫寫潛水5513的粉面 (藥膏面/ Matte Dial) 吧。如果錶友有玩開舊裝潛水，都知道早期是瀝架面 (Lacquer Dial)，中期是粉面，最後期是釘框面 (Glossy Dial)。粉面是什麼時候開始製造的？

潛水5513最早的粉面是 Meter First Dial (MF)由1967年開始生產，是緊接瀝架面同時面世的，所以最初的MF 面是用瀝架面同一種氚（Tritium )的物料，到現在遇上UV光也會著燈 (綠光/ Glowing)。這種夜光相對比較特別，平時看上去有點鮮黃色，有人叫砂糖夜光，是

粉面惟一會著燈的面盤。這個夜光情況和同期的款式如GMT-Master 1675, Explorer 1016, 潛水5512 MF面盤一樣。

這種粉面都是1967年的產品，但勞力士很快就推出「不著燈」的物料氚的面盤了，我們可以在市場上找到同年，但對UV光有不同反應的MF面盤。這種MF面盤除了夜光會變黃變深色之外，有極少量黑色面底會變啡，成為啡面 (Tropical Dial)，當然漂亮的啡面市場價會很貴，而本人這些年來也沒有碰到很好的example，所以就沒有收藏了。 

潛水5513粉面在2013後的升幅很明顯，在舊裝運動錶中算是名列前茅，當年最受追捧的正是MF 和 Maxi dials，到了2018年高點後開始有停滯的跡象。這幾年新進錶友都集中火力玩新裝，此消彼長下，潛水5513反而便宜了，尤其是 MF 5513 ，相對比Maxi dial 更感低水，這種情況在未來日子裏有沒有可能會翻身，就看市場力量了。 

隨後的面盤設計是Feet First，在1969年開始產生了兩款面盤代替 MF 面，就正是 Serif 和 Non-serif 面了。這兩種面盤有著很接近的設計，由流水號二百萬初到五百萬中都有著它們的蹤跡。怎樣分，大家可以看看以下的圖片 : 最明顯是長方形的夜光，上下或左右邊位有著起鈎的外型，ROLEX字體位置有微少的分別。大家如果要懂得辨認就得加強觀察及記憶這些小節了。潛水5513到這個時候又開始有新的變化，大寫聽過COMEX沒有？下一集對大家講講這們Terms由來，和期後這型號最輝煌的時代，Maxi dials。

Champagne was a still wine?

Champagne is a wine of joy. Festival, weddings, celebrations, you could will be the emergence of champagne. However, we have too much misunderstanding of champagne. So why don’t we pop a bottle of Champagne for celebration of Chinese New Year, and turn to the next page to start a trip towards the Champagne region!

A place called Champagne, located at the north-eastern part of France, people once produced Pinot noir which reminiscent of Bourgogne reds. This is the prototype of what is now called Champagne. Due to the cold weather, the fermentation process was often interrupted until it re-started again next spring. This leads to accumulation of little bubbles.

This ‘sparkling’ wine was widely favoured by British and French cafe society. However, the wine is very different from what we call Champagne today. Later, new technologies were invented by several persons, who has greatly improved the quality of champagne:

In 1662, Christopher Merret from the UK published its invention of “adding sugar and yeasts to generate bubbles”, which is named “second fermentation”. This becomes one of the most critical steps in the production of champagne, making its fizz much fuller.

It was rumored that Dom Pierre Perignon, who was also known as the father of Champagne, was the inventor of Champagne. It should be clarified. It is Dom Pierre Perignon who suggested to blend different grapes in Champagne to boost the flavours.

Provide the yeasts with sugar, they would produce the bubbles. However extra sugar not only leads to overwhelming sweet, but also build up gas pressure that is hazardous. In 1830, a pharmacist named André François developed an equation to calculate the precise amount of sugar that should be added..

Lees sediment causes turbidity and even odd flavors. Veuve Cliquot's Madame Clicquot invented the riddling method to remove sediment effectively, which become the tradition since the methodology is revealed to public.

香檳是快樂的酒，舉凡節日、婚禮、慶祝都會有香檳的出現。不過，我們也對香檳有著太多的誤解。既然如此我們何不以新春節慶為名開支香檳，並翻開下一頁，讓眼睛來一趟香檳區之旅！

沒錯，在法國東北部一個名叫香檳的地方，酒農們從前都釀造果香充沛、細緻優雅的黑皮諾紅酒。這正是香檳的原型，口感有點像布根地的紅酒；然而因氣候寒冷，葡萄酒的發酵過程往往中斷，直到翌年回暖酵母復甦繼續發酵，因此瓶內有時會積聚少量氣泡。

這種微氣泡酒當時廣受英法上流社會的青睞，甚至王室也鍾愛。不過，它跟我們今天飲用的香檳相差甚遠。後來出現了幾位重要人物，他們分別發現新的技術，大大改善了香檳的品質.

1662年，英國人Christopher Merret發表在葡萄酒內加糖生產氣泡酒的方法，命名為二次發酵。這是製作香檳最關鍵的步驟之一，令香檳的氣泡比一般氣酒充沛綿密。

被譽為香檳之父的Dom Perignon，很多人以為他是發明香檳者，其實他對香檳的貢獻是在另一方面。香檳是勾兌的藝術，正是Dom Perignon提出以不同種類葡萄增加香檳的風味。

提供糖份予酵母就能製造氣泡，但太多的糖份不但導致香檳過甜，同時過多氣泡會增加瓶內氣壓。1830年，一名叫André François的藥劑師研究出方程式，準確計算出添加糖份的份量。

香檳瓶內的酵母，會造成酒液混濁，甚至奇怪的味道。人們一直尋找各種方法移除。Veuve Cliquot的Madame Clicquot於十九世紀發明了以轉瓶法移除瓶內沉積物，成為其他香檳仿傚的對象。

Virtual Tasting of Premium Champagne this Summer

Due to COVID-19, there are many country’s wine events and winery tastings got cancelled. People cannot meet in person to taste wine and interact together. But wine people are smart and change the tasting into virtual tasting, so that we can still connect with the winemakers or winery owners to taste wine together. We all have to stay home and stay safe. It’s a hot and boring summer. It’s a great idea to open a chilled quality champagne to relax a bit.

The renowned premium champagne Krug has launched its Krug Grand Cuvee 168eme Edition recently. Due to the pandemic situation, Olivier Krug, the sixth  generation of Krug family & Director of the House, has hosted its first Krug Grande Cuvee 168eme Edition ZOOM Champagne Tasting with media in Hong Kong. First of all, I received a Zoom meeting invitation. Then, two days before the tasting, I also received the delivery of the champagne with glasses for us to chill it before the meeting. Everyone will stay home or in his/her own office and go online together to join the Zoom meeting, meet with Olivier and taste the newly launched champagne together. 168eme Edition is a blend of 198 wines from 11 different years, from 1996 to 2012. The climate in 2012 is unstable with less grapes but very concentrated ones, which turned out to be a great year. It’s aromatic with floral, pear, ripe peach, honey, brioche, mineral, orange zest and toasty nuts notes. It’s lively and complex. When I asked Olivier if he thinks Krug matches well with dim sum, he said as Krug Grande Cuvée is elegant & versatile, with over 120 reserved wines blended together, it matches with many different cuisines and dim sum is definitely a great match!

Another renowned premium champagne Dom Perignon has also launched its new 2010 vintage champagne. I’m also very delighted to be invited to join its virtual tasting. This experience is a bit different from zoom meeting. We were invited to join the virtual tasting in a suite of a hotel, a small group tasting with everyone sitting apart to be safe and met with the winemaker Nick Lane to taste the new vintage live together. Apart from 2010 vintage, we also tried 2008 vintage to compare. 2010 is full of sunshine, it can be compared to its 1996 great vintage. You can taste the sunshine from the richness of the champagne, including white peach, citrus, white flowers, honey, mineral, toasty & brioche notes. Comparatively, 2008 has a longer finish and 2010 has more richness on the palate. Both vintages are wonderful and different. Since we all need to stay home and stay safe, why don’t we open a nice champagne to cheer up ourselves at home? Cheers!

由於疫情，其實很多不同國家的葡萄酒活動及不同品牌的葡萄酒試酒會亦已相繼取消。沒有實體試酒會活動，酒商亦靈活變通，改為網上試酒會活動，跟釀酒師或莊主一同試最新推出的佳釀。由於疫情又常常宅在家，這麼悶和熱的夏天，開一瓶冰凍又優雅的香檳喝喝，輕鬆一下也不錯。

法國著名香檳莊Krug 香檳近日推出新型號Krug Grand Cuvee 168eme Edition香檳。由於疫情，Krug 香檳的第六代 Krug Olivier遠在法國，跟香港傳媒進行Krug首個 Zoom 香檳試酒會。首先是收到Zoom約會邀請，而在試酒會前兩天，便收到Krug香檳和酒杯，讓你可預先把香檳雪定。大家都在家或各自的工作室一起上線，到網上試酒會開始時，跟莊主一起率先試他最新推出的佳釀。Krug Grand Cuvee 168eme Edition，由11個不同年份（1996年-2012年）198款酒款組成，香氣四溢，帶白花、香梨、熟桃、蜜糖、牛油麵包、礦物、橙皮及烤果仁等味道，活潑而層次複雜。2012年由於氣候返覆，收成少咗，但果香豐富，十分精采。問到Krug Olivier覺得Krug配點心㚒嗎？他説由於Krug優雅而具層次，以多於120款基酒組合而成，跟很多種類的食物也很夾，當然不少得點心吧！

另一法國著名香檳Dom Pérignon近日亦推出了新年份2010年年份香檳。我亦被邀參加了它的搖距網上試酒會（virtual tasting）。這個體驗跟Zoom試酒會有點不同，我們被邀請去酒店的套房，大家保持距離的分開坐，然後一起跟在電視螢光幕中的釀酒師Nick Lane作視像交流。席間我們除了試2010年份外，亦同時試了2008年作比較。2010年陽光充沛，比喻可同1996年好年份相比，你可以從這個年份香檳飮得出充滿陽光的濃郁果香，包括白桃、柑橘、白花、蜜糖、烤烘、礦物、牛油麵包等味道，而2008年相對餘韻比較長，但味道相比2010年份沒有那麼豐富，各有各美態。既然要留家抗疫，不如開一瓶高質香檳讓自己高興一下。Cheers!

Hugging the Summer of Chablis Wine Village

Chablis is one of 44 statutory wine villages. There is only one Chablis Grand Cru in the Premium Park AOC. Unlike the other 32 Burgun Premium Parks, which use the name of the vineyard as the statutory production area such as Chambertin, Corton, etc., but the Chablis Premium Park has seven small gardens and they are allowed to put its name on the wine label , so the consumers can choose among different styles, such as grapes growing in the orchard located near the river or the grapes growing in the orchard located on the mountain. While Moutonne, the wine yard which is located between the two orchards of Preuses and Vaudesir, has a profound historical background and was not included in the recognized eighth small garden at that time, but as it is located within the Premium Park, its existence value cannot be ignored. So, that’s why this little Grand Cru has its value on the market.

In fact, Chablis is located in the southern part of the Champagne region, far away from the Burgaon area. In the early Middle Ages, it was under the rule of the Count of Champagne. It was not included in the Duke of Bourgogne until the late 15th century. The incident did not end in this way. Some wineries continued to supply dry whites for champagne wineries, they are processed into champagne in Reims and Epernay, and even Simmonet-Febvre winery also produces its own Chablis sparkling wine. Of course, these situations was no longer happen after the AOC production area protection law is set. Nowadays, the product produced at Simmonet-Febvre can only be called Bourgogne sparkling wine.

The base of Chablis is the 150 million-years-old fossil soil Kimerigian. The classic mineral taste comes from these marine oyster valleys. The soil contains high calcium content that help preserving the acidity of the fruit juice. This is the root of the characteristics of Chablis, so only Chardonnay that produce here is regarded as unique. However, as the market demand kept increasing at that period ,the production can’t catch up with the demand in the 1970s, and the winery began to consider using harvests from the surrounding as supplements. The peripheral Portlandian soil is also used for producing Chardonnay, but it can only be included in the Petit Chablis AOC production area.

Chablis wine is well known for its simplicity in the wine world. The refreshing and pure nature used to be its selling point. By minimizing the impact of oak, the lively orange and refreshing mineral aromas can faithfully reflect a single variety and unique soil characteristics. This is the selling point of the simplest Chablis. When the epidemic is still there, stay at home and drink Chablis to relieve heat and the worries.

Chablis是44個法定酒村其中之一, 特級園AOC只有一個Chablis Grand Cru, 不同其他32個布爾岡特級園單以葡萄園名字作法定產區如Chambertin, Corton等, 但Chablis特級園裡七塊小園又可放其名字在酒標上, 讓消費者選擇不同風格, 如近河邊的一塊風土條件又跟在山上那一塊果園不同. 介於Preuses和 Vaudesir兩塊果園中的Moutonne, 雖然懷有深遠的歷史背境, 當年不列入認可的第八塊小園, 但由於身居在特級園範圍又不能忽略其存在價值, 所以市面上出現這塊不簡單的小Grand Cru。

其實Chablis就在香檳酒區南部, 遠離布爾岡地帶, 在中世紀早期是由香檳伯爵所管轄, 直到十五世紀後期才納入布爾岡公爵領地. 事件並不是這樣完結, 某些酒莊一直供應乾白給香檳酒廠, 在Reims和Epernay加工製成香檳, 甚至乎如Simmonet-Febvre酒莊也自家出品Chablis汽泡酒, 這些情況當然在AOC產區保護法例定下之後已不再發生, 現在Simmonet-Febvre生產的只可稱為布爾岡汽泡酒。

Chablis以一億五千萬年化石泥土Kimerigian作基礎, 經典礦物味道就是來自這些海洋蠔穀, 土質含高鈣量保存果實汁液酸度, 此乃Chablis的特性根源所在, 所以這裡生產的莎當妮才是獨一無二. 但隨市場須求,在七十年代産量短缺,酒莊開始考慮以周邊收成作補给,外圍的Portlandian泥土也在生產莎當妮,但只可列入Petit Chablis AOC產區。

Chablis酒在葡萄酒界以單純見稱, 一直以清爽純潔作賣點, 儘量減小橡木影響, 讓活潑橘子和怡神礦物香味忠誠地反映著單一品種和獨有土壤特性, 這就是最簡單不過的Chablis賣點.今年疫情非同小可,還是留在家中喝Chablis解暑吧。

The Dramathon and Whisky

The whisky-themed running competition-The Dramathon, started three years ago and is held every October in Speyside, Scotland. I participated in its 10km race for the first time the year before. It is the first time in my life that I participated in a running race overseas.

At that time, I had made sufficient preparations beforehand as I participated in a race two weeks before the departure, purely for strengthening my endurance , and I finished the race faster than my expected time .However, in the day of the race in Speyside , the temperature is close to 20 degrees though Scotland had already stepped into autumn, together with the rain dropped the night before, the natural track was muddy all over. To make things worse, I brought the wrong running shoes, I feel exhausted when I ran less than half of the distance. Luckily, I was able to complete the whole course in the end. The finishing time is longer than expected.

As long as the runner finish the whole race, every contestant can get a medal made from old oak barrels, and some whiskeys samples that belong to the district. When I went back to the Highlander Inn for a short break. I enjoyed the drink again at the bar ! With the experience of the last time, I joined The Dramathon 2019, running for 10 kilometres and the route remains the same. Hundreds of contestants from all over the world started from Aberlour, running along the path next to River Spey. After passing Craigellachie, we run into a pathway seems like a forest road, the sun shone through the gaps between the trees, like a muddy road with no end. This time I didn’t do enough practice, and my condition was not as good as last time, but the cold weather helped a bit and I wore the right shoes for natural roads, the finishing time was unexpectedly even faster than the last time.

After the race, I went to the the Glenfiddich distillery , lying down on the grass and sipping its 12 yo whiskey , it was my reward for this competition. I couldn’t book a nearby accommodation and I planned to have cheese and beer at Black Isle Bar before having seafood meal at a local restaurant, then I drank two glasses at a nearby whisky bar. The next day early in the morning, I have to fly south to London.

I gave myself a wish at the time: the next time I will come again for the competition but I will choose to run the half-marathon. Unfortunately , the Wuhan pneumonia was broke out. At the time of writing, Europe was slowly untied and gradually unblocked, and the football game reopened, but the competition must be held behind closed doors. Whether The Dramathon in October will be held as scheduled is still unknown. Scotland is my favourite place. I like their lamb and seafood. Of course, their whiskey is my favourite too.

As the saying goes, the road to recovery may be long, but I firmly believe that it will always getting better and better. See you in Speyside two years later.

The Dramathon：https://www.thedramathon.com

以威士忌為主題的跑步比賽 - The Dramathon，由三年前開始，每逢十月在蘇格蘭Speyside舉行，筆者在前年首次參加其10公里比賽，這是我人生中，第一次在海外參加跑步比賽。

當時雖然事前有做足準備功夫，出發前兩個星期還參加了一場比賽，純屬寓賽於操的性質，竟做出快時間（對我而言）；但是去到比賽當日，秋天的蘇格蘭罕有地有接近20度高溫，加上前一晚下了場雨，天然路的賽道，遍地泥濘，而且我帶錯跑鞋，結果跑到未到一半路程，已感舉步維艱，最終也能完成全程，時間就較預期中慢。

每位參賽者，只要跑畢全程，皆獲得用舊橡木桶製成的獎牌，與及一些屬於該區的威士忌酒辦，記得當日比賽後，回到下榻的Highlander Inn小休一會，晚上落地庫的酒吧再飲過！ 有了上次的經驗，剛過去的The Dramathon 2019，再接再勵10公里，路線不變，數百位來自世界各地的參賽者，照舊由Aberlour出發，沿著River Spey旁邊的小路，經過Craigellachie，走進像森林一樣，舉頭望到的是樹葉，陽光在微弱的罅隙照射進來，好像沒有盡頭的泥路；今次賽前疏於操練，狀態沒有上次的好，但寒冷的天氣幫了我一把，特別地穿上應付天然路的跑鞋，完賽時間竟然還快過上一次。

灑著雨粉趟在Glenfiddich酒廠的草地上，喝著其12 yo的威士忌，也許是我這次比賽的一大獎勵；訂不到附近的住宿，即日來回Inverness，計劃找間當地餐廳吃一頓海鮮，然而，我死性不改，先在Black Isle Bar吃芝士喝啤酒，再到附近一間威士忌酒吧飲兩杯，成為了比賽後的晚餐，但真的只是飲兩杯而已，第二天大清早，便要乘坐飛機南下倫敦。

我當時給自己一個期許：下次再來比賽，要增程跑半馬拉松了，可惜人算不如天算，武漢肺炎爆發，執筆之時，歐洲正在慢慢鬆綁，逐漸解封，足球比賽重開，但要閉門作賽；十月的The Dramathon，能否如期舉行，仍是未知之數。蘇格蘭，是我喜愛的地方，喜歡它們的羊肉、海鮮，當然不少得威士忌，正所謂船到橋頭自然直，復原之路或會漫長，但堅信總會好起來。

兩年後，Speyside再見。